Remove the paint from the bonding joints so you can see where the quarter panel separates. With a blade or screwdriver begin to remove the original quarter panel. Work your way around the edge like this and the panel should come off fairly easy.  The new panel will go on just like an original replacement would.

This is what it should look like with the panel removed correctly.  The bonding strips should be intact and all bonding adhesive should be removed.

Grind the underside of the new panel to get a nice fit and to insure a good bond.

Put the panel in place and mark where it might need trimming.  Remove and trim as necessary.

Remove the screws and panel.  Apply bonding adhesive to the bonding strips around the edge of the panel only.  It is not necessary to apply bonding adhesive to the baffles at this time, you will notice there is a large gap between the new panel and the baffles that will need to be filled later.  The area outlined is the front baffle that you don’t need to bond at this time

Place the panel onto the body and use an awl to line up the screw holes.  Put the screws in the holes,and clamps if necessary,along the lower tail lamp bonding strip. Let the bonding adhesive cure before moving on to the next step.

Remove all screws and clamps. The next step is optional but recommended to prevent the seams from shrinking back over time.  With 40 grit on a D.A. sander feather down the fiberglass on both sides of the seam.  I like to go down to the bonding strip between the panels and feather out about one inch on each side.

Feather out around any remaining screw holes as well.

Apply fiberglass in the feathered area including over the screw holes. Use polyester resin and fiberglass matte to do this. Build the fiberglass up thick enough so it will fill the feathered area.

After the fiberglass has cured (placing heat lamps over the fiberglass after it has set up is recommended for complete cure) sand the raised areas down with 40 grit on a D.A. sander.

Follow that up with 80 grit on a hand block until smooth and straight.

If necessary you can use filler to finish your bodywork.

Hand block with 80 grit and finish off with 150 and you’re ready for primer.